The American dream

In mid-March, a major leg fracture following a ski fall caused me to miss my trip to Tasmania with Hans Rey. I'm still in the hospital, although I should have flown away for a long week in the land of kangaroos. It's a hard blow, but I'm trying to keep my spirits up by thinking about the US trip in September. The surgeon is quite skeptical, he tells me that in 6 months, I will be able to resume a normal life, this means that only at that time, I will be able to resume normal physical activity. I am leaving with this handicap but with the desire to get back on a bike in 3 months. I carry out active rehabilitation 5 times a week, for 2.5 hours a day. I listen to my feelings and I progress regularly. The road is long, but I'm not going to give up. At the beginning of June, I managed to get back on a home trainer, at the end of June on a road bike, at the beginning of July on a mountain bike… I do my best but the pain is there. I broke my tibia and fibula into several pieces, a big plate holds it all together... At the end of August, I'm on the mountain bike with Hans Rey and Brian Lopes in Livigno, I grit my teeth every day. At the beginning of September, I continued my training, based solely on road cycling. I arrive at the end of September, ready. The pain is still there, but the cardio has returned. For this trip, I'm taking friends who don't know each other, that's the challenge. The trip will include Aurélien Fontenoy, the MTB trial pro-rider as well as 2 friends, Fred from Marseille and Romain from Bercelonnette. We take off from Marseille to reach Las Vegas. I have planned a dense, ambitious but enjoyable program: 12 days of non-stop mountain biking through Utah, Colorado, Arizona and Nevada! A dream that will have to come true. I tried to plan everything as best as possible, sometimes we will ride twice a day. There will often be long distances by car, waking up early… When we arrived in Las Vegas, it was raining... That's the only thing I hadn't imagined. Being in the desert and seeing the rain fall. Fortunately the weather is good, but we will quickly become disillusioned. Our entire suitcase is based on summer gear. Apart from a long sleeve jersey and a Gore Tex jacket for me… Upon arrival, in Las Vegas, we collected our luggage and our bikes, a good thing done. At the same time, we take charge of our 2 cars. Initially I had opted for a large van, but no rental agency wanted to certify the removal of at least 2 rear seats to put the bikes. So, we fell back on a 2-car solution. In the end, it was cheaper and in terms of fuel the van consumed double that of a normal car. So the results are pretty good. We leave Vegas, at night, in the rain. After a 2-hour drive, we arrived in Saint Georges where we booked our first shabby hotel. We collapse into our beds, it's 1:30 in the morning. The next day we assemble our bikes, everything is ok, it's a relief. We are ready to go riding. First stop, a ride next to Hurricane, just behind Virgin where the Rampage takes place every year. But it rained all night. We take the access track, but the mud is present. It's clay here, we're getting our 2 Dodges in condition, the cars won't have any respite during our trip... It's slipping in all directions, we're afraid of getting stuck in the mud... Further on, as the track deteriorates, we come across a huge, typically American pick-up truck loaded with bicycles. The guy turns around, too much mud, he gets stuck. We then decide to cover this first ride. The trip starts off badly. We hit the road again with death in the man to get to the 2nd trail planned for the next day. We arrive at the gates of Bryce Canyon early in the afternoon. The weather is rainy, it's falling hard... We still decide to ride this famous Thunder Mountain. It's too good to skip. We leave a car at the summit (ultimately, we will use our 2 mini-vans to make a few rotations). Just as we are ready, the rain increases. We wait patiently. Finally, a short lull appears, we attack the trail. The landscape is sumptuous, the trail perfectly worked, we are directly in the US spirit. Even if not all the trails are open to mountain biking, those that are are perfectly designed for our practice. The slopes are always moderate, the idea is to favor flow. Stones regularly fill the holes, making the steps less dangerous and lower. It's beautiful work. Thunder Mountain wanders through a beautiful conifer forest. The earth is red, it’s splendid. The higher we go, the more the terrain gets wet and the more the mud sticks to our bikes. Once on the plateau, where the water no longer flows, our bikes become heavy like dead donkeys. The wheels lock up, it feels like a struggle... The end of the rain coincides with the start of the descent. We take the option of stopping as little as possible so that our tires come loose. Of course, we are equipped with tires for dry terrain. Coming here at the end of September and experiencing the rain, you have to experience it. With a little speed our tires burst, but we are in an impossible state. The further down you go, the better the terrain is. We are already enjoying ourselves as much as possible. The landscapes are incredible: red and orange earth, towers, fairy chimneys, gorges, canyons... Incredible. Thunder Mountain keeps its promises and we arrive at the bottom with an oversized banana. Time for cleaning: cars from top to bottom, bikes and clothes in the karcher, we spend more than 2 hours there. We have time to take the road towards Grand Junction. On our way the motels are all full, we are on the outskirts of the most prestigious American National Parks. Finally, we are forced to push on to Colorado, we arrive in Grand Junction, it is midnight, we are slammed. The next day we picked up Aurélien, who had just arrived from China. That's it, the team is reunited. I change the plans a little because we should have arrived here in the afternoon. We have time to do one more trail this morning. We set our sights on a recent route, north of Grand Junction. We organize a car drop-off, it's a good 4X4 with passenger cars. It's a real laugh when we place the underbody on a protruding stone... To tell the truth, we're clenching our butts not to leave the cars in a pitiful state. We start our first ride in Colorado. We climb into a sort of very desert valley, in the spirit of American films. The setting is magical, arid and rocky. Higher up, we come to a ridge where the view of Grand Junction, Fruita and Colorado is magical. To make this setting even more American, we hear the whistle of a train straight out of a cowboy movie! It's extraordinary, we imagine seeing Indians landing behind each stone... We attack the descent, the trail is also well laid out, the route is technical and fluid. After a good and long descent we reach the banks of the Colorado. A short break, then we leave this time on the other side for a route well known in the area: Palisade Rim. The temperature has risen a notch, fortunately a good wind brings a little freshness. The climb to Palisade is steep and technical. You have to constantly pull yourself out, you only move on a path that climbs between the rocks. The landscape is once again magnificent. On the first plateau, we admire the first petroglyphs that we see in the US. These engravings on the rock, here of deer, are very old. Very easy to access, they are in no way damaged. We continue to climb to the second plateau. The descent arrives, we pass near cliffs, at the edge of the plateau. The views are fantastic, the Colorado flows peacefully below. The technical passages are easy, the trail is not very hard, but you have to stay focused. We reach the parking lot, full. This first big day of riding went well, it's always crucial at the start of a trip. After a good meal and a short night (we are still not settled), we head towards Fruita. It rained again last night, we are afraid of playing Thunder Mountain again. The Kokopelli trail, according to one of my informants on site, seems to be usable even when wet. We set off for 30 km XC style between plateaus and ravines: a typical Colorado landscape. The trail is perfectly fluid, always well laid out with intelligence. You have to stay mobile on your bike. We arrive at a break where we have to descend from the plateau to reach a second lower level. The passage is very tense, “double black diamond”, the hardest technical rating in the US, I am not risking myself. The steps are very high, it's very, very involved. Only Aurélien tries. He succeeded brilliantly. With his level in trials, no step can stop him. He even decides to go up this passage... Incredible, but he leaves a lot of energy there... Unfortunately, the film of this ascent did not work, the camera acted up. Too bad, this memory will only remain in our memories. The continuation of the course is pleasant, we try to maintain a good speed. Our bikes are a little big for this kind of route, but they do well. From plateau to plateau, we visit magnificent corners, always with a Colorado laden with alluvium as a backdrop. Back at the car, we have our account, it is time to go back and have lunch. An American burger to sit down, it's perfect. These are our first high-calorie meals, we will quickly try to eat differently... The sun returns more clearly to Fruita and around 3:00 p.m., we reach an isolated parking lot in the desert, to the north of the city. Several vehicles are already parked there, most of them riders. Second route of the day in the 18 Road trails sector. We set off in beautiful, grazing light. The beginning is rolling and fun. Then comes a long, not very steep climb to the foot of the large earth and rock slopes. We finish our ascent with a few very steep bends, we end up on a sharp ridge where a steady wind is blowing. The view is splendid, the trail is like a roller coaster. Off we go for a long, fast descent. The slides follow one another, we gain incredible speed, the path is clean, well marked. As I gain confidence, I attempt a blind jump after a short climb. Already, I had not imagined that I would be catapulted so high, then I would never have thought that the path turned completely to the left. So I land next to the path, in a hole. I take a good hit with the racket and head back forward. Fortunately the Formula fork plays its role perfectly and ensures good rigidity, I avoid the OTB. Nice scare, but we start again. The light fades as we return to the parking lot. Direction the Motel, then the restaurant and then the bed. We drove 45 km today, we did the job as they say. The next day, it rained again all night... It's our last morning in Colorado before taking the road to Moab. We head towards the Lunch Loop spot. The weather is low, we organize a car shuttle to connect 2 trails and do a little downhill. The option will be paid. The Ribbon trail is very original, since we ride several kilometers on a huge slab with little slope. Extraordinary! Arriving in a canyon with tortured shapes, we continue with Andy's Trail and its very fun path. On several occasions we carefully avoided rolling in the sticky clay. Here it is whitish with blue or green reflections. It's easy to recognize, so we avoid all the pitfalls. Finally, without incident, we arrive at the parking lot where a team of students, in coordinated work attire, are building a new mountain bike trail. There are at least thirty of them, shovels and picks in hand. A teacher supervises them closely, the work progresses quickly. We interact with them, it’s another way of understanding how practice is organized here. After a few days spent in the USA, we understand that Americans like to do things correctly. Developing a trail while retaining its natural character is important. The slopes are always as gentle as possible, depending on the terrain. This promotes flow and limits erosion. It's well thought out. We are looking forward to going to Moab. We will be there in the evening. This city is considered the US capital of outdoor sports. We can't wait to ride there, but also to see how things are organized there... Moab, here we are. At the heart of our trip, after Bryce Canyon and Fruita in Colorado, we reach the outdoor sports capital of the United States. The arrival is via highway 191, at the bottom of a superb canyon. The scene is set, the magic operates at the gates of the city. But you shouldn't expect to enjoy the charms of this town, Moab is an ordinary town, crossed by a road with heavy traffic. People come here only for the wonders of nature. Besides, most visitors disembark for Arches National Park, but as it is forbidden to drive there, we will not set foot there. Don't forget that if you are in the area for a few days and have time to go, a day of walking is highly recommended. For now, we are heading towards Slickrock, this will be our first contact in Moab. And that’s where you should start any first visit. After paying the entrance tax to the plateau (yes, the Yanks know how to generate dollars…), we park in the large parking lot. We are not all alone, there are many riders coming and going. Slickrock is a 100% rock ride. No earth, roots or gravel here, we ride on sandstone from start to finish. And what's crazy is that we climb very steep slopes, which we would never dare to attempt! Come on, let's go for 3 hours in this maze of tiles. Fortunately, the Americans have planned everything, you have to follow the white dotted lines. From time to time we come across passages used by motor vehicles, but honestly it is not annoying. On the contrary, it's the opportunity to admire these 4x4s overcoming incredible obstacles! We take photos and videos, it's steep, very steep, really fun. Each climb requires work on yourself, you have to trust the equipment, and, in my case, I am very happy to wear Squale shoes from Hutchinson, they seize very hard! Halfway through the route, we decide to do a variation to discover a magical viewpoint over Colorado. We leave the dotted lines to navigate by sight. It becomes less simple, we lose a lot of time and arrive quite late at the end of the cliff, with a breathtaking view over the river 200 m below. The light is fading, we enjoy this view until the last moment then decide to run back to the parking lot. But the road is long, we overtake a few other stragglers like us. I'm starting to feel tired, especially as the ass shots keep coming. We arrive, very tired, at the car, there is no longer any light. It's minus one! Head to the campsite to take charge of our little chalet. In terms of accommodation, we took it easy, thinking we would arrive in Moab and find space. But everything was full, only rooms at 1200 dollars a night remained!!! Fortunately we found this solution while camping. So for the record, don't do like us, book in advance if you come to Moab! After a good meal at Zax (it will become our evening canteen), we go to bed, the next day we wake up early. The sun is not yet up, we are dressed and heading to Dead Horse Point where we leave one of our vans. Let's go for Mag 7, a series of 7 very beautiful trails in Moab. On paper, the hike should be completed quickly: 400 m positive, 1300 negative, a little less than 40 km. In 4 hours we will be down… Big mistake. The first part is easy and fun, it is a descending profile. However, the slight slope, the multiple turns and the permanent sandstone, require a good dose of energy to maintain the pace... And the non-stop sequences of days on the bike have already started us well... The trail is endless and magnificent. At the end of this first part, we climb long series of slabs in full sun, it's hot, no wind... Arriving at the foot of Gold Bar Rim, we already have our account. And we still have a grueling climb, in the slabs, facing south. The passages are steep, too steep for some. You have to climb steps, sometimes very high, it goes straight up. Each pedal stroke requires significant effort, we finally arrive on the crest, what a view! At the bottom, Higwhay 191, in the distance Arches! It's break time, I even take the opportunity to sleep for 5 minutes. And I did well because for the rest, I had chosen the ridge option (and not the normal route which passes lower). It's great for the view but it ends us physically. It's uphill and downhill trial, for miles... There's no end in sight as we arrive at the start of Portal. This is the last descent before the car. But what a descent! Portal is considered one of the most technical trails in Moab, with some very exposed passages. It's quite bad with our fatigue. But we're getting started. We set off ahead with Aurélien, happy to begin a long descent, without an intermediate ascent. At the beginning it goes well, a few technical passages are passed without incident. Then come the first hot passages. Several signs recommend extreme caution and to pass on foot following fatal falls. The environment is exceptional, the passages very tight. It's better not to fall indeed! The further down you go, the more technical it gets. After the exposed passages, you need to use a good trial technique to do everything on the bike. Aurélien is on his land, I decide to let him go to wait for Fred and Romain. I'm starting to feel the blow, I prefer to take my foot off and ensure the end without falling. Finally, we arrived at the end of the day at the edge of the Colorado, where we had left the second van. Instead of 4 hours, we took 6 hours! We need a good day's break after that. And yet we continue. The next day, we are hard at work at more than 3000 m at the start of the Whole Enchilada, THE legendary trail of Moab: 50 km, from the mountain to the desert in a descending profile! And what a change of scenery. We leave our van in the snowy mountains of Moab. It's completely crazy, the day before we were dying from the heat and now it's 3 degrees! We start this day under magnificent sunshine, our crampons tighten on the snow. The colors of the trees have already faded into autumn, the birches are on fire, the spectacle is incredible. Quickly, a good climb occurs. It requires a lot of energy. To avoid getting too burned out, we push our bikes. After a good 30 minutes, we reach the high point of our route, at 3400 m above sea level, the Burro Pass. On the other side, an alpine trail awaits us. We descend a beautiful path in a coniferous forest, the snow on this northern slope is still very present, we ride while sliding, it's playful and sometimes treacherous. We cross a few fords, then leave the snow and conifers to find deciduous trees and birches. After this good descent, we climb for around ten minutes to switch to the desert side. We are definitively closing the door to the mountain area, it is a major slap in the face in terms of landscape. In the distance the arid canyons of Moab, that's where we're going. It really seems very, very far away. Hazard County sets the tone in this transitional space: the ride is fun, playful, fast. Further down, we reach the Kokopelli, a trail which starts from Fruita in Colorado and arrives in Moab. This is the least interesting part, wide, on the track. We are missing a new variant on the right. This will be the excuse to come back to Moab and ride it. We reach the edge of the plateau with the famous UPS, LPS and Porcupine. We meet many riders here. Few people left from the top like us, the local tour operators discouraged them all from leaving at 3400 m because of the snow. LPS and UPS are two very playful trails, we come across a group of French people who were following our adventures via Facebook. Finally, we all ride together. On Porcupine, with Aurélien, we accelerate the pace, the group stretches but holds on. We maintain a great pace, not giving up on the restarts and riding like pigs on the descents. Porcupine dives towards Colorado, we continue the technical passages. As in Fruita, the facilities are discreet and make tense areas easier, or even make them less dangerous. The light at the end of the day is magical, we reach the parking lot in a state of total excitement. A trip to the shower then to Zax's. We leave Romain and Fred to look for the car at night in the mountains. The next day, we take things cool, the Whole Enchilada left some traces. We set off at 11am under a blazing sun. We are planning a not too long ride near Captain Ahab, another legendary sector. After 2h30 of riding between HyMasa, Rockstarter and Jackson we have our account. We leave Moab to go to Sedona. We cut the journey with a day near Monticello, in Indian country, in the Blue Mountains, for a wild trail, still at an altitude of 3000 m. This morning, at dawn, we pass numerous 4x4s and quads, it's the opening of the hunt, it feels like a military field. After some hesitation, we decided to ride anyway. And we did well, because once over the pass, we are alone and the ride is excellent. The path is superb, it runs through the woods, it feels like you're in the Alps, it's magical. This trail is a great discovery, few riders come here and that's a shame. In the morning, when we wake up, we point our noses outside, it is raining. We decide to rest in the morning, while waiting for it to stop, good weather is expected in the afternoon. We wander around the local shops where the welcome is always good. Around 12 p.m. the rain stops, we have a leisurely lunch and head towards West Sedona around 2:30 p.m. The weather clears quickly and we can ride in t-shirts, it's nice, the rain has revived all the smells of the plants, it's extraordinary. The loop that we follow is a mix of what I had imagined, enhanced with advice from the guys I met at the stores. It's quite cross-country, but that's not to displease us. This is a change from the rough terrain of Moab. The scenery in Sedona is fabulous. The red sandstone towers are part of the landscape, the terrain is a magnificent orange-brown, the sharp green of the trees completes the picture. A feast for the eyes. We finish this loop at the end of the day, it is almost dark. In the evening, the excitement reaches its peak, tomorrow we have to ride the White Line, this famous white line filmed by drone a year ago and which has garnered millions of views on the internet. It has become THE freeride line of the moment and it is here. During the winter, during my rehabilitation, while preparing for this trip, I watched a lot of videos. I was able to conclude that it is dangerous but playable. We'll see tomorrow morning. Waking up, great weather, the ground has dried, the conditions are perfect. We start a good day of riding with a first loop to the west of the city. We attack the steady ascent of the Broken Arrow trail. We regularly come across pedestrians, cohabitation is good and courteous. The landscape is still magnificent. Then we arrive on a large promontory where the White Line is revealed. What show ! This white line, a rocky stratum, shows the path in this ocean of orange sandstone: after a long sloping crossing, you have to go down a very steep and very exposed passage, then return in the opposite direction, one stratum lower. The entire progression takes place above an a-peak more than 100 m high. Falling prohibited. We climb the right stands to reach the start of the White Line. Up there, the slabs are not very steep at first. The White Line invites you to ride it. But it is misleading because the further you advance, the more pronounced the slope. At the end, it is even important, especially when passing through chutes dug by the rain, where the rear wheel tends to slip away... You have to stay focused and not hit a pedal. This requires managing your pedaling well. The landscape is very open, the emptiness omnipresent. The most dangerous passage remains the end of the White Line where you have to go down 5 to 7 m, to find another stratum and go in the other direction. Applying braking is essential, you must prevent the rear wheel from slipping and above all initiate the left turn fairly quickly because the turning platform once at the bottom is very narrow. 1 or 2 m further and it's the big fatal jump. Romain and Fred stay on the side filming us, they prefer not to get involved. We make several passages with Aurélien, I'm quite happy to get it over with, we're letting the tension go down again. The day continues with the Little Horse trail, then we return via Hog Heaven, a very technical and aerial trail. We just spent the morning riding on this spot. In the afternoon, we head towards the Hangover loop, another major route here, undoubtedly the best. We first climb on a very wide forest track. It's a change from climbing trails. In France, we are used to climbing on wide routes, in the US, since the start of our trip, all our climbs are on singletrack. And the difference is that it's much more technical and therefore tiring. After just half an hour, the Hangover starts. We climb across slabs, we follow white dotted lines which open the most clever path. It climbs on the bike as much as possible. At the top, we reach a magnificent rocky pass. The afternoon is already well underway. We attack the first part of the descent, the tone is set, it's very technical. The progression on the balcony requires a good physical condition on the lifts, you must remain careful because some trees hide very steep slopes where it will be better not to fall. Further on, the path goes straight down a series of steep and long slabs. We navigate by sight and I prefer to take it easy rather than get lost. It's quite impressive to descend such passages. Further on, the path is more conventional. The further down you go, the less technical it is, it's a pleasure all the way down. For our last day, it will be the Hiline near Cathedral Rock. Another 2h30 of great, varied, fun and sometimes very technical cycling, with the added bonus of a refreshment in a river! Extra, we leave Sedona with the desire to return. We head west to find Las Vegas. We spent a nice evening there strolling on the strip, in a pretty crazy atmosphere. Sin City lives up to its name… After having a good laugh, we were completely out of step with the local temptations, we went to bed a little before 3am. At 5:30 a.m., the alarm goes off for one last ride before taking the plane. We set off at sunrise in the heat that was already present. We drive 2 hours with breathtaking views of Las Vegas. Our bodies are very rusty, for my part, I drag my broken leg during the winter, it smells like the last wrinkle, I remain careful not to end up on the mat. Especially since the terrain here is very slippery, it is so dry that you have the impression of rolling on a ball bearing. Barely enough time to return to the hotel, take a shower, load our bikes in their covers, we jumped on our plane satisfied to have had an uneventful trip: no major falls, no mechanical problems, no orientation problem, magical trails. 12 days like that with 4 people, we want more! Go If we follow our entire trip, the best airport remains Las Vegas. There are many flights, the airport is in the city, which means you don't have to waste too much time on transfers. Consider booking an evening (or a night for the more party-loving) to discover this incredible city. When returning from the trip, it is preferable… Itineraries It can be found in the VTOPO VTT Trip Ouest Amérique and via VTOPO Premium: www.vtopo.fr/itineraires ! Bring your bike If you are taking your bike, remember to pack it well. Be careful with boxes, they can be poorly received at airports. Best of all, Evoc covers are perfectly suited to travel. The equipment is well protected. The majority of airlines do not pose a problem when transporting bicycles. Go to the USA This happens very frequently, but check the validity date of your passport a few months before leaving to be sure that on the big day, it will still be good. Finally, do your ESTA, it is mandatory to enter American territory. Also remember to fill out the customs and immigration document on the plane. Entering American territory remains easy, but the procedures are tedious. Health It is essential to go to the US well insured, health costs are very high. Review your contracts and take out additional insurance if necessary (Mondial Assistante or Europ Assistance, they have occasional contracts). Budget The biggest item remains the plane ticket (around 1000 euros). For cars, you have to count (it all depends on the seasons) around 500 euros for around ten days. Gasoline is not very expensive, tolls are non-existent in this sector. If you are going with several people, dividing the main costs, you will need to count on 3000 euros per person for 15 days (all inclusive). When to leave? Be careful, we very often operate at altitude. In some cases, we will ride above 3000 m. To enjoy all of the trails and areas, you should avoid coming before the beginning of June. Of course, summer is really hot. It's even impossible to ride in Moab... From mid-October, the snow can make things more difficult, and the days start to be short. September seems to be the best time. Bike on site All these spots are legendary places in the US, where cycling has become a main activity. This means that everything is well organized for maximum enjoyment. There are bike shops in every big city. Pay attention to the times, it usually closes quite early around 6 p.m. The prices are quite expensive, for example in Moab, an inner tube costs 10 dollars… The service is impeccable, the stocks are well stocked. In short, you will find something to help you out. In Moab, there are shuttle services to Mag 7 or Whole Enchilada, find out online or in local stores. The Americans are very friendly in general, so don't hesitate to chat with them, they will always give you the best tips. Many trails are dedicated to mountain biking (even if shared with other users), the signage is excellent. On the other hand, stay on dedicated trails, do not ride where it is prohibited and do not go off-trail. You risk a heavy fine. Concerning the electric mountain bike, it is currently difficult to envisage, because it is considered a motorcycle. You will then be confined to motor vehicle paths, this loses much of its interest. © Cédric Tassan

The American dream

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